#1 Kapuziner Monastery: I was actually surprised at how close this look-out point was to the hotel I stayed in the first time I was in Salzburg about seven years ago, which was directly off Linzer Gasse. This may seem like a funny observation to make, but it was a walk I always wanted to take, but also always decided against because "it's too far." That's how I've justified missing out on this for so many years. It's just amazing how you can distort a memory with a lie, but no matter! I fulfilled a dream this trip, and it was worth it! Not only was the view fantastic, the walk, overlooked by statues of saints, was a pleasant one. Also, I met a really nice woman and her two children. "Englisch oder Deutsch?" she asked me, and I told her in German that either would be just fine. We started talking, because she happened to be from Ohio and she'd studied at Salzburg when she was at University. Of course, I only know one school in Ohio that has a program in Salzburg, and it turns out she is a BGSU alum! One of my old German teachers had gone to BG, studied in Salzburg, met her husband there, and used to prod me to follow in her footsteps. Alas, I chose Oberlin...
#2 Festung Hohensalzburg Another awesome view I missed seven years ago, and from here you can really see everything. It's a bit higher than the Kloster, but the walk is less scenic. You can, of course, take the train up, but if you're cheap like me, you'll sweat it out, and you won't buy the audio guide. (Though, if you're interested in the history, I think it'd be cool to get one... I think it was only 2,50 euro...) Anyway, there's lots to do up at the top. You can take pictures, wander the grounds and read the history of the place, or sit back and relax by the mountains with a beer or ice cream (or both--as I found out, this is not an ideal combination. Beer: it's a learning experience.)
#3 Churches Despite what many may say, I do not adhere to the "seen one, seen 'em all" philosophy when it comes to churches, especially Catholic churches. If you have the time in Salzburg, go into them all, maybe even catch a Mass if that's your thing. If not, check out the Cathedral and the cemetery at St. Peter's Church. They're both relatively close and breathtaking. The pure white of the Cathedral walls, and the details in the carved relief and colorful frescoes, while extravagant, somehow avoid appearing heavy and overwrought. On the contrary, entering the building from the tourist-crammed square outside, one feels a sense of lightness, and regardless of belief, an unexplained awe washes over you. Sit a while in here and allow yourself time to stare--and eavesdrop. (Money-saving technique #549: Eavesdrop on tours, but be sneaky about it, okay, and don't tell anyone I sent you.) As for the cemetery, it's an experience just as magical. Modest wire structures rather than towering stones rise from the earth. Graves seem tightly packed and overgrown. There is often more than one body from a family buried in a single plot to save space. There are some famous people buried here, so eavesdropping or finding yourself a walking tour might be a good idea if it's your first time... (Also, go in the church if it's open! It's gold and shiny and amazing!)
#4 Mozarts Geburtshaus Do not--I repeat: DO NOT skip this! This was my third time in Salzburg, and only my first inside this beautiful yellow building, whose modest facade could never suggest what amazing treasures lie in wait just beyond the threshold. This was honestly the best €6 I think I spent spent the entire trip. What was really interesting was that the exhibit focused less on his music and more on his life and family. Letters, tiny violins, portraits, grade cards, gifts--that's what you see as you browse the rooms while the music of Mozart and his father sets the mood. Regardless of how mythical people claim the movie Amadeus is, I would just like to announce that all I could hear when I was reading his letters was Tom Hulce's sweet voice, and I'll say that counts for something. He did such an amazing job capturing the playfulness you can feel in Mozart's music and writing. Example: he wrote a whole letter to his father in alphabetic riddles. To his wife, he wrote a letter, for the most part, detailing all the silly, ridiculous things he did to her portrait when he was on the road (which, added up, totaled about 1/3 of his life). Evidently, he was pale and lacking in social graces, but you can see in the way his sister and wife loved him that he had to have possessed some sort of endearing childishness... Speaking of his sister, Nannerl Mozart, she was an excellent musician in her own right and many of her brother's earliest compositions were for her music books. Also, she seems to have had impeccable insight into her brother's personality, writing once "Außer der Musik war und blieb er fast immer ein Kind" (Outside of the music, he was and would remain forever a child). Brilliant!
#5 Watch The Sound of Music and prance around Mirabell Garden No, really, I'm serious. The Sound of Music was filmed in Salzburg and most hostels/hotels will play it daily in the lobby or common space. It's always cool to watch a movie and be able to say "I was there!" or to see a place and be able to say "Wow! That was in This Movie or Other!" Plus, while traveling alone, I will admit that the "I Have Confidence" number really touched my heart and made me shed a few tears. (Shut up, I was afraid of going to Venice the next day, okay?) Anyway, the Gardens are where the Do-A-Deer scene was filmed, and there are plenty of beautiful flowers to stop and sniff, and some hilarious (drunken?) gnome statues no one should miss!
So, there you go, folks! My Top 5 Things To Do In Salzburg, but there's plenty more to do! Go up Untersberg--even if it's cloudy, it's fun to be up there, freezing in June, stepping in snow while wearing sandals. I didn't go up there because I've had horrid luck and left a camera up there in the bathroom twice--TWICE! Clearly, I was not meant to remember Untersberg through photographs. See a concert! There are plenty going on every night, and Salzburg is known as the city of music so it'd be kind of blasphemous to not hear some excellent music. (Yes, I am guilty of blasphemy--just means I'll have to go back soon!) Also, go shopping. It might be a bit expensive, but I think they had some of the best tacky junk ever... I mean, who doesn't want a wooden Mozart doll to hang in your car? (By far, this is my favorite souvenir I have ever purchased. It even surpasses the sword I bought in Toledo when I was 12...)
Anyway, the children of Captain Von Trapp wish to say goodnight to you. So long, farewell, Auf Wiedersehen, adieu and all that jazz. Next update: Venice!
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