The Cinque Terra is actually five little villages on the rugged coast of the Italian Riviera. And, no, it's not quite the little spot I've always dreamed of where I'm the only tourist around for hundreds of miles and a family takes me in and feeds me and we laugh and have a good time. (Yeah, dream on, Jen.) There were tourists, and a few of them were aggravating, and, as with any guided tour, I was skeptical about the truthfulness of what I was being told, but that doesn't change the fact that my Cinque Terra experience was exactly what I was looking for. What I wanted was a beautiful hike down ancient paths, with some element of adventure, completely solitary, socializing on my own terms, enjoying things on my own schedule, BUT with someone to get me there and back safely with no stress on my shoulders. Walkabout gave me that.
The day started off early and ended late. 7am bus call, 9pm return. I was immediately adopted into a family of Americans who fed me breakfast (thank you!) and thought I was pretty badass attempting a Eurotrip all by my onesies. (Except, at that point, I was so beyond attempting. I was succeeding, dammit! Hear that? That's the sound of my ego inflating.) Somewhere in the first village, I met an older Canadian woman who was also Eurotrekking alone and had done so multiple times. I found I really enjoyed her company and attitude as well, so for most of the trip, I hovered somewhere between Family Time, Fellow Badass, and Just Me. Later on, I met a cute Irish couple over gelato who took me in for a while...made sure no one forgot me on the docks, y'know. :) I spent a lot less time alone than I anticipated, but none of it was forced. I wasn't forced to listen to stupid frat bros talk about stupid frat bro things, like how the Czech Republic is such a ~*man's*~ country because of all the ~*meat*~ and ~*beer*~. Lord, I am such a misanthrope.
Anyway, the company was much better than expected, but hands down, this was one of the strangest, most exciting places I traveled this summer. The crystal blue ocean, vivid plant-life, terraced vineyards, boxy buildings all the colors of a pastel rainbow stacked one against the other... Because I was on a tour, paying people to keep me safe and get me home, for the first time since Germany I felt I could really lose myself in my imagination. Since everyone walked at a different pace, there were times when I was completely alone. In the villages, I would pretend like I was some sort of Bond girl in a luxurious, sexy dress that flapped stunningly in the crisp ocean breeze as I peered over a bridge...or maybe I was a street urchin, stealing bread and filching pocket-watches just to stay alive. On the rugged trails, I was a brilliant archaeologist, underestimated by my sexist male colleagues, determined to prove my worth and bring back the ancient artifact. You may think I'm crazy, but I'm telling you, it is so much fun...
This is, however, not a tour for everyone. There is a lot of walking. There is significant topography. It is hot. If you are a newlywed, trekking with your partner, be prepared for strife. There was a fresh-married couple on the trail behind me for a while and I could have sworn the girl was going to file for divorce at the end of the trip. She was afraid of heights. She was hot. She was tired. She wore sandals when they clearly state on the website to wear real shoes. And it was all her husband's fault. Man, was she cantankerous. I think she would have had an easier time if she didn't waste all her energy yelling at her husband, but I digress. The sun is strong. The stairs are many. It is arduous, but that is exactly what I wanted. For all I talk of safety, I don't want to stay in a safe, tourist-trodden bubble. I want to be like Rick Steves--awkward and adventurous! I want to be able to look over a cliff face and feel my life. The Cinque Terra was perfect for this. The whole point of the site is that it represents nature and humanity struggling to strike a balance. Landslides knock out trails; railings and warning signs don't exist. The land is only as tampered with as necessary to promote the life and culture of the communities. There may be many tourists, but it's the tourists that are forced to change and push themselves--not the land.
So, to cut a long entry cut short:
#1 I would definitely recommend the Walkabout tour. It's a bit expensive, but they get you where you're going, give you as much company and information as you desire, and don't force you to do anything except walk (which, they can assume is why you're on the tour anyway) and be at the tracks on time to catch the train. Plus, a delicious, local (as Rick Steves would say) lunch is provided.
#2 Don't wear jeans and do bring sunscreen. Trust me, I broke both these rules. The only thing I did right was to bring a water bottle.
#3 Go to the Cinque Terra. :) Do it!
No comments:
Post a Comment